Valpo, who are you?

Second most-important city in Chile, cultural capital, seat of congress and a vital port. Probably not what you will remember Valparaíso for.

Unique in Chile and most unusual in all South America, Valparaíso (short 'Valpo', also nicknamed 'La Perla del Pacífico') was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2003. They say, "The colonial city of Valparaíso presents an excellent example of late 19th-century urban and architectural development in Latin America." (Long description here.)

Built upon 42 hills (cerros) overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Valparaíso possesses a labyrinth of streets and cobblestone alleyways, a vernacular urban fabric adapted to the geography and a system of funicular elevators (ascensores) climbing steeply up from the plain, the flat city centre (el plan). During Valparaíso's golden age (mid 19th to early 20th century), the city received large numbers of immigrants, primarily from Europe (the largest communities came from England, Germany and Italy) each developing their own hillside neighbourhood. 


Stunning vistas as you look down to the naval harbour, yes, a faded grandeur and bohemian charm, yes, but it is not only that.

Pablo Neruda, Chilean poet and often cited for his poem about the city, wrote:
Valparaíso,
how absurd
you are... you haven't
combed your hair,
you've never
had
time to get dressed,
life
has always
surprised you.

Poets and artists long drawn to the city, along with the ever-shifting port population of sailors, dockworkers and prostitutes have created a Valparaíso of 'anything goes'.

We will mostly remember Valparaíso for its crisscrossing electricity wires above the streets, the colorful murals, the welcoming, family-like hostal and the Valparaíso anti-tour with Gonzalo, chef of the Cafe Vinilo.