Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Valparaíso

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Valparaiso, a set on Flickr.

Valpo, who are you?

Second most-important city in Chile, cultural capital, seat of congress and a vital port. Probably not what you will remember Valparaíso for.

Unique in Chile and most unusual in all South America, Valparaíso (short 'Valpo', also nicknamed 'La Perla del Pacífico') was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2003. They say, "The colonial city of Valparaíso presents an excellent example of late 19th-century urban and architectural development in Latin America." (Long description here.)

Built upon 42 hills (cerros) overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Valparaíso possesses a labyrinth of streets and cobblestone alleyways, a vernacular urban fabric adapted to the geography and a system of funicular elevators (ascensores) climbing steeply up from the plain, the flat city centre (el plan). During Valparaíso's golden age (mid 19th to early 20th century), the city received large numbers of immigrants, primarily from Europe (the largest communities came from England, Germany and Italy) each developing their own hillside neighbourhood. 


Stunning vistas as you look down to the naval harbour, yes, a faded grandeur and bohemian charm, yes, but it is not only that.

Pablo Neruda, Chilean poet and often cited for his poem about the city, wrote:
Valparaíso,
how absurd
you are... you haven't
combed your hair,
you've never
had
time to get dressed,
life
has always
surprised you.

Poets and artists long drawn to the city, along with the ever-shifting port population of sailors, dockworkers and prostitutes have created a Valparaíso of 'anything goes'.

We will mostly remember Valparaíso for its crisscrossing electricity wires above the streets, the colorful murals, the welcoming, family-like hostal and the Valparaíso anti-tour with Gonzalo, chef of the Cafe Vinilo.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Santiago de Chile

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Santiago de Chile, a set on Flickr.

Doubtful Sound

In Maori legend, Doubtful Sound (named in Maori: Patea) and the other fiords were created by a godly figure (atua) who came wielding a magical adze and uttering incantations.

Tu-Te-Raki-Whanoa, the creator of the fiords, aimed to fashion long winding inlets that would serve as refugees from the restless, often stormy seas. He began is the south and worked north, applying his immense strength and splitting the rock with the adze. As he opened up the land, the sea rushed in. Four young sea gods assisted him by carving the fiord’s long, sheltered arms.

Doubtful Sound is the second largest of the 14 fiords of Fiordland National Park (Dusky Sound is the largest.). It is remote, wild and imposing. Three arms - Hall, Crooked and First - are found on the southern side of the fiord. Fiordland is one of the world's wettest regions. Most of the rain falls on the seaward side of the mountains with Deep Cove receiving 5,290mm of rain a year. Fiordland is home to a variety of marine mammals, including Bottlenose Dolphins, Fur Seals, Fiordland Crested Penguins and the Blue Penguin.

Originally Doubtful Sound was named 'Doubtful Harbour' by Captain Cook when he sailed past in the Royal Navy ship Endeavour on his first circumnavigation of New Zealand in 1770. Cook skirted past the entrance to Doubtful Sound, wondering whether there was sufficient wind to manoeuvre his vessel in the narrow reaches. It was reported that scientists wanted to land, but Cook thought it not worth the risk.

(Source: Real Journeys Visitor Information brochure)

PS. Watching the dolphins playing in the water's of the fiord's arm when the ships engines and generators were turned off, were probably the 5 most amazing minutes in the country.

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Probleme bei Kreditkartenzahlung in Neuseeland

Deutsche Kreditkarten in Neuseeland funktionieren oft nicht und lassen die Kartenlesegeräte in Geschäften, Restaurants und Tankstellen abstürzen, so dass nur noch Stecker ziehen und ein Neustart hilft.

So, lässt sich das Problem umgehen:
  1. Karte mit dem Chip nach unten einstecken. Kartenlesegerät gibt Fehlermeldung aus.
  2. Magnetstreifen durchziehen.
  3. Ggf. Schritte 1. und 2. einmal wiederholen
  4. Zahlung erfolgt.

How to attract...

... a dolphin?
  1. Swim in circles - mimicking the dolphin circling around you
  2. Dive down (pressing the air through your snorkel) 
  3. Sing a song 
What a concert it must have been for the hundreds of dolphins in the Pacific Ocean near Kaikoura when all the humans sung their favourite tune...